Nothing is wrong with your faucet. Water is simply emptying from the aerator and the hose of your faucet.  The top of the arch of your spout is above the aerator, so water runs down the arch and out.  The hose also expands slightly when the water is running. When the water is shut off, the hose contracts to its original size squeezing out the water.

If your drip continues for more than a minute or so, then you may have debris in your valve or need to replace the cartridge or seats inside the valve.

Here are some tools you may need:

On a two-handle faucet, try tightening the bonnet shown below.

If that does not work, you may need to replace the stem.

To identify the appropriate handle stem, search for the model number on peerless.com and refer to the parts diagram provided on the product page.

To replace the stem:

1. Shut off the water supply.
2. Cover drain opening so parts won’t fall into it.
3. If you have lever handles, loosen the set screw with an Allen wrench. 3/32" is the most common size. And then remove the handle.
   If you have knob handles, carefully pry off the handle button. Then remove the screw using a Phillips screwdriver and lift off the handle.
4. Unscrew bonnet nut. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen if necessary.
   
5. Note the orientation of the stem unit. Pull stem straight up and out.
   
6. IMPORTANT—STEM MUST BE REPLACED PROPERLY.
   1. Knob handle stem position: Slip the stem unit into the body, aligning the tabs on the stem with the slots in the body, so the “stop” on each stem points toward the spout.
   2. Lever handle stem position: Align the tabs on the stem with the slots in the body, so the “stop” on each stem points toward the right. If you have lever handles, you may also need to reinstall the quarter turn stops to limit the handles from turning more than 90º. Note: If you reinstall the handles and find that they aren’t turning in the correct direction, rotate the stem 180º and check for proper handle rotation.
      
7. Screw bonnet nut on and hand tighten.
   
8. Replace handle, tighten the screw.

In most cases, a faucet leak can be repaired with Peerless® Genuine Parts.  If you still have your installation instructions for the faucet, check the troubleshooting section for repair information.

If you don’t have your installation instructions anymore, please visit the Online Catalog to search for your faucet’s maintenance & installation instructions. Once you find your faucet, select Maintenance & Installation for repair information.

If these options don't work, call 1-800-438-6673 or e-mail us for assistance.

First, we need to find out whether it’s the hot or cold valve causing the constant leak. Let's begin by troubleshooting with the hot valve:

1. Shut off the hot water supply. If you can't find the shut-off for your tub/shower valve, shut off the water to your house by using your water shut-off valve.
2. Remove the faucet handle. Depending on your handle type, you will need a Phillips screwdriver or an Allen wrench to do this.
3. Remove the chrome bonnet nut using an adjustable wrench.
4. Remove the stem extender by unscrewing the retention screw with a Phillips screwdriver.
5. Remove the stem assembly by pulling straight out.
6. Remove the seats and springs inside the valve body.
7. Examine them for wear or debris and wipe out any debris in the depression where the seats and springs sit in the valve body.
8. Replace the seats and springs.
9. Reassemble the faucet and confirm drip has stopped.

If the drip persists, repeat the above steps on the cold valve.

If you've replaced the seats and springs and the problem continues, replace both stem assemblies.

If all of the above has not fixed your leak, and your valve is more than about 25 years old, it is possible that the actual faucet body may have developed a leak. If so, you will need to replace your tub/shower valve with a new one.

Note: Consumer safety is our number one concern. If you do not have experience with plumbing repairs, we recommend that you contact a licensed plumber for tub/shower repairs.

It is normal for a small (pencil thin) stream of water to continue to flow from the tub spout when the shower is in operation.

If the amount of water flow is excessive, then this indicates a problem with the diverter located in the tub spout. This cannot be repaired, and the spout must be replaced. Remove the tub spout and replace it with a Genuine Peerless tub spout.

To locate a local source for Peerless tub spouts, contact a licensed professional plumbing contractor, or call 1-800-438-6673, or just e-mail us for assistance.

Note: Consumer safety is our number one concern. If you do not have experience with plumbing repairs, we recommend that you contact a licensed plumber for tub/shower repairs.

On a single handle faucet, you need to tighten the adjusting ring or replace the cam and packing.

1. Tighten the adjusting ring until no water leaks around the stem when the faucet is in the full-on hot and cold mixed position, and pressure is exerted down on the handle.
   
2. Loosening and tightening the adjusting ring also controls how hard or easy the handle is to use. Over-tightening the adjusting ring can cause premature wear of the seal surfaces, making frequent repairs necessary.

If there’s still a leak after you’ve tightened the adjusting ring, you may need to replace the cam and packing using Peerless Genuine Parts. And here’s how you do that:

1. Shut off the water supply.
2. Cover the drain opening with a towel so parts can’t fall down the drain.
3. If you have a lever handle with a red and blue hot/cold button, pry it off to expose the set screw. Loosen the set screw with an Allen wrench and remove the handle. If you have a knob handle, pry off the handle button, remove the screw and lift off the handle.
4. Unscrew the cap (counterclockwise) and lift it off. If the cap is too difficult to unscrew by hand, loosen the gray or white adjusting ring in the cap and try again. If you still can’t remove it by hand, place a crescent wrench at the top of it and turn counterclockwise. To avoid damaging the faucet finish, you may want to place a jar opener gripper between the cap and wrench, or a heavy cloth (such as a towel) between the cap and wrench. CAUTION: IF YOU NOTICE THE CAM TURNING ALSO, QUIT TURNING IMMEDIATELY AND CALL A PLUMBER.
5. Remove the cam, packing and ball by lifting up on the ball stem.
   
6. Place the replacement packing and cam over the stem of the ball and engage the tab on the cam with the slot in the body. (The peak of the triangle in the cam for a lever handle faucet will be facing the spout.) Now push down.
   
7. Partially unscrew the adjusting ring, then place the cap over the ball stem and hand-tighten it onto the body, while pushing down on the cam to keep its tab engaged with the slot in the body.
8. Tighten the adjusting ring until no water leaks around the stem when the faucet is in the full-on hot and cold mixed position, and pressure is exerted down on the handle.
   

On a single-handle tub or shower, you need to tighten the adjusting ring or replace the cam and packing.

1. Tighten the adjusting ring until no water leaks around the stem when the faucet is in the full-on hot and cold mixed position and pressure is exerted down on the handle.
2. Loosening and tightening the adjusting ring also controls how hard or easy the handle is to use. Over tightening the adjusting ring can cause premature wear of the seal surfaces, necessitating frequent repairs.

If the leak persists, you may need to replace the cam and packing using Peerless Genuine Parts.

1. Shut off water supply.
2. Cover drain opening so parts don't fall into it.
3. If you have a lever handle with a red and blue hot/cold button, pry it off to expose the set screw. Loosen the set screw with an Allen wrench and remove the handle. If you have a knob handle, pry off the handle button, remove the screw and lift off the handle.
4. Unscrew the cap counterclockwise and lift off. If the cap is too difficult to unscrew by hand, loosen the gray or white adjusting ring in the cap and try again. If it is still too difficult to remove by hand, place a crescent wrench at the top of it and turn counterclockwise. To avoid damaging the faucet finish, you may want to place a jar opener gripper between the cap and wrench or a heavy cloth such as a towel between the cap and wrench.
   CAUTION: IF YOU NOTICE THE CAM TURNING ALSO, QUIT TURNING IMMEDIATELY AND CALL A PLUMBER.
5. Remove cam, packing and ball by lifting up on ball stem.
6. Place replacement packing and cam over stem of ball and engage tab on cam with slot in body. Push down.
7. Partially unscrew adjusting ring and then place cap over ball stem and hand tighten onto body, while pushing down on cam to keep cam's tab engaged with slot in body.
8. Tighten the adjusting ring until no water leaks around the stem when the faucet is in the full-on hot and cold mixed position and pressure is exerted down on the handle.
9. Loosening and tightening the adjusting ring also controls how hard or easy the handle is to use. Over tightening the adjusting ring can cause premature wear of the seal surfaces necessitating frequent repairs.
    

The problem may be a blocked or damaged diverter assembly. Follow these steps to solve:

To access the diverter -- Single-handle faucet:

1. Shut off water supply under the sink.
2. Cover drain opening so parts won’t fall into it.
3. Remove the handle, cap, cam, packing and ball assembly.
4. Gently rotate and lift off the spout.
   
5. Remove the diverter assembly. Be sure to remove the entire diverter.
   
6. Insert a flat head screwdriver or an Allen wrench into the body cavity to pop out the diverter. Check for debris on the diverter, as well as in the diverter cavity in the faucet body. A flashlight will help when looking to the back of the cavity.
7. Clean the diverter thoroughly by soaking in a 50/50 vinegar and water solution for two hours; reinstall. If diverter appears damaged, replace it with Peerless® Genuine Part.

To access the diverter -- Two-handle faucet:

1. Shut off water supply under the sink.
2. Cover drain opening so parts won’t fall into it.
3. Unscrew and remove the spout nut. Use a crescent wrench to loosen if necessary.
   
4. Unscrew the diverter from the top of the body using a coin (if the diverter is plastic) or a screwdriver (if the diverter is metal). Be sure to remove the entire diverter.
   
5. Clean the diverter by soaking in a 50/50 vinegar and water solution for 2 hours. Flush any debris from the opening.
6. Replace the diverter and spout nut.
   
   Check to see if the diverter functions properly. If not, replace it with a Peerless diverter. Be sure that the old diverter seal is removed before install the new diverter. The old diverter seal can prevent the new diverter from operating properly.

Be careful not to over tighten the diverter.

NOTE: Old style metal and current-style plastic diverters are interchangeable.

Shut off the water supplies to your tub/shower valve. If you can’t find those, shut off all the water to your house using your main shut-off valve. Then call a licensed professional plumbing contractor for assistance.

Look under the sink to be sure the strap assembly that operates the stopper is properly adjusted and that the nut holding the horizontal rod in the drain assembly is secure. Be sure the stopper is properly adjusted.

Note: The cap on the stopper is not designed to be flush with the flange. A seal is created by the weight of the water, which pushes the rubber seal under the stopper against the flange in the sink.

If your drain stopper has been installed to be non-removable, check to see if any section of the pivot rod or strap assembly hits underneath the counter or sink. If so, the stopper can't drop far enough to create a seal in the sink. Depending on what is blocking the action of the pivot rod or strap, you may be able to rotate the pop-up sink stopper slightly so it no longer bumps against anything under the sink.

If everything is adjusted properly, check the amount of silicone or putty between the flange and the sink itself. Although a white gasket is supplied with most drains to seal under the flange, if a sink has an unusually rough drain area surface, it may be necessary to use silicone instead of the gasket. It is possible to determine if there is insufficient silicone or putty under the flange by using a rubber stopper to seal the drain opening only. You can also press down on the stopper to attempt a manual seal and determine if water is leaking around the pop-up flange. If there is insufficient silicone or putty between the sink and the pop-up flange, water will leak out of the sink into the drain, even with the drain stopper fully closed.

Note: Water will not leak onto the cabinet floor; it will seep into the drain via the overflow holes in the drain body.

To check the flange's seal:

Remove the nut that holds the horizontal rod to the body of the drain pipe.

1. Remove the horizontal rod.
2. Lift the stopper out.
3. Reattach the nut that holds the horizontal rod to the pop-up body.
4. Test to see if water is leaking around the flange by plugging your drain with a rubber stopper. Do not cover the outside of the drain flange.
5. If the leak continues, remove the flange and apply more silicone or putty under the flange.

To remove the flange:

1. Unscrew the large nut under the sink.
2. Unscrew the drain body from the flange. Some plastic bodies do not need to be separated from the flange.
3. Pull the flange straight up through the sink. If the flange sticks to the sink, gently pry it loose.
4. Apply a fresh, uniform-round bead of silicone or putty.
5. Reinstall the flange and tighten the nut under the sink.

Note: Do not rotate the flange or drain body after re-installation. Rotation may cause the silicone or putty seal to break, which may cause leakage.

Caution: Before using plumber's putty, be sure to read the warning labels to make sure it won't stain marble or attack plastic sinks or rubber components.